What to do with
a Long Skirt
from the November 1908 issue of The Delineator
"GRACE is a gentle art with which Nature has
endowed some, and which others must acquire. It is so necessary to a
woman’s charm that she must have wondrous wit, beauty or goodness to
offset its absence. Nowadays we have our boys and girls taught to dance,
ride and swim, that they may be graceful and at ease in the various
movements which social life requires. Some time ago the wielding of the
fan was taught as an art in which every member of the fair sex should be
accomplished, counting its value high for a graceful ensemble. Yet the
fan is but an occasional incident, whereas the proper wearing of one’s
gown is an ever-present duty.
The wearing of a gown is not alone the way in which it
is put on, but the management of it when on, getting the best results
from its possibilities. The first essential is for a woman to be
unconscious of her clothes; they should be a part of her, and the sense
of being “dressed up” should never be evident or present. Every child
should be taught to look her best on all occasions whether in simple
play frock or dainty dancing dress, but never to display that unbecoming
consciousness of wearing her best clothes.
The Directoire style has brought back the long,
clinging skirt which the Parisian artist in dress has never
relinquished, appreciating its essential qualities of grace and
becomingness. No detail of the costume can add more grace and dignity to
a woman’s appearance than a long skirt properly handled; and this alone
has often made the entrance of a. plain woman more marked than that of a
beautiful one who is conscious or clumsy. It suggests height for the
short figure and lessens any appearance of stoutness, while giving to
her who is tall that freedom from self-consciousness which tends to a
graceful bearing.
A gown is intended to be worn as it is built, and the
long gown to rest upon the floor, changing its position only with the
movement of the wearer. Many do not appreciate this and wear such
costumes where they must be held up all the time to save them from soil.
The long gown is essentially a dressy one, and should be worn only where
its style is required. Upon entering a restaurant, church or theater, a
skirt should be allowed to fall into its natural position rather than be
held up until one reaches her seat.
On the other hand, the raising of the gown is important
when ease of movement demands it. On ascending or descending stairs, the
best results are often attained by using both hands, as the skirt may
thus be lifted evenly in front, avoiding the possibility of stepping on
or catching one’s toes in the hem. The skirt should never be lifted in
the back when going up stairs, for here the trailing folds are at their
best, adding grace to the silhouette and concealing any awkwardness
incident to exertion. When going up-stairs the spine should be kept as
straight as ease will allow, excessive bending being not only unbecoming
but entirely unnecessary. In lifting the gown a fold of it should he
caught easily with the fingers where they naturally fall above the knees
in front, the fold raising the gown sufficiently without the necessity
of bending the elbow. When descending stairs the gown may be lifted or
allowed to trail. The skirt should be gathered into one hand and brought
around to the side easily enough to avoid any evidence of pulling across
the back, while the other hand catches a fold of the dress at the side
and lifts it slightly. The manner of holding up the skirt is worthy of
careful study before one’s mirror. There are many occasions when one
hand must serve, and this is the time when the proper management of the
gown is most difficult. Gathering it into the hand at the side, it must
be raised sufficiently to protect it from soil without drawing it so
closely as to emphasize the lines of one’s form, for this suggests
vulgarity. If when entering or moving about a room one feels conscious
of her hands, one at least may be gracefully disposed of in lifting the
gown slightly at the front or side.
When standing, the skirt may be dropped, as shown in
the illustrations.
(c) 2006
